My sister, Jess, has been sewing for over a decade. Naturally, when I mentioned to her that I’d bought a sewing machine, she offered lots of awesome advice based on her experiences. She also gave me a copy of Stitch by Stitch: Learning to Sew, One Project at a Time* by Deborah Moebes for my birthday.
One of the first projects in Stitch By Stitch is cloth napkins. The book builds from very basic cloth napkins with overcast edges to a more formal napkin with mitered edges. We’ll talk about the mitered edges later – today, I’d like to address overcasting.
Overcasting is one method of finishing the raw edge of your fabric so that it won’t fray. For the simplest of the napkins, Deborah recommends overcasting the edge using a zig-zag stitch. Unfortunately, as easy as that sounded, I couldn’t get it to work.
The primary and most frustrating issue was that the fabric kept getting pushed down into the needle throat plate, causing the machine to completely jam. The jamming, panic, and unjamming are worthy of their own post so I won’t go into detail now.
After I’d resolved that though, the edges puckered and curled in. The napkins looked terrible. Even after ironing them, they won’t lay flat because the edge tension caused puckering and uneven pulling.
Notice the ripples.
I finished four napkins, convinced that with practice it would get better. Much of my issue was getting this very lightweight cotton to feed through the machine when I was working so close to the edge. I tried changing my stitch length and width but couldn’t get anything to work.
It was time for some internet troubleshooting. I very quickly found references to an overcasting foot after a quick Google search. I went to my sewing machine manual. Not only did my machine have the foot, the manual has a section on overcasting. I was using the wrong foot as well as the wrong stitch setting for my machine. The solution had been on my desk the entire time!
The overcasting foot
The foot itself is neat. It has a little rod down the center which isn’t attached in the back. It wraps the thread around the rod as you stitch at the edge. The thread slides right off when the feed dogs advance the fabric.
Notice the white thread to the right of the needle is wrapped around the rod.
Empowered with my new knowledge, I was able to do some overcasting before washing new fabric to keep it from fraying! The right circle below contains my new, clean overcast edge while the left is a closeup of my attempt to zig-zag stitch along the edge.
Achievement Unlocked: Overcasting!
*This is an Amazon Associates link.